Mildenhall Roofers installs new roofs in Bury St Edmunds, handling every stage of the job properly - from the first inspection through to final clean-up.
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Many homeowners reach the end of a roofing job with only a vague idea of what was done and why. That is not ideal when a roof is one of the most significant investments a property owner makes. This page walks through each stage of a new roof installation so you know what to expect, what questions to ask at each point, and what separates a job done properly from one that cuts corners.
Before any materials are specified or a price is put together, a proper inspection needs to happen. At minimum this means getting eyes on the roof from close range - ideally from a ladder or scaffold - rather than a quote given from the pavement with binoculars.
The inspection looks at the condition of the existing covering, the state of the battens and underlay visible at the eaves, the condition of lead flashings at any chimney stacks or abutments, and whether the ridge and hip tiles are mortar-bedded or mechanically fixed. It should also identify whether any verge or eaves details are failing. On properties with a loft, a look at the underside of the roof from inside is also worth doing - you can sometimes see failed felt, wet timbers or sagging battens that are not visible from outside.
The inspection should result in a clear explanation of what is wrong, what needs replacing and why, and what the options are for the new covering. If a contractor cannot explain their findings, that is a concern.
A new roof cannot be done safely from a ladder alone. Scaffolding is a non-negotiable part of any full roof replacement on a two-storey or even many single-storey properties. It provides a safe working platform for stripping the old covering and laying the new one, and it protects your garden and any adjacent property from falling materials.
Scaffold hire is normally arranged by the roofing contractor and is included in the overall price or quoted as a separate line. Make sure you are clear which applies. Scaffold typically stays in place throughout the job and is removed once the roof is signed off.
The existing tiles or slates, ridge and hip tiles, and any mortar bedding are stripped off and sent down to ground level. On a project where the underlay is being replaced - which it should be on a full roof replacement - the old felt comes off too, exposing the bare rafters and any structure below.
This is the moment when the true condition of the roof structure becomes visible. Rotten rafter ends, soft or snapped battens, and damaged or undersized timbers will show up now. A contractor who finds structural problems should stop and talk to you before proceeding - continuing to lay a new covering over compromised timbers creates a much bigger problem later. Ask to be told what they find during the strip, and document anything significant.
Waste from the strip-off needs to be disposed of properly. Old tiles and broken slates are heavy and need a skip or similar. Confirm that waste removal is included in your quote - it sometimes is not, particularly with lower-cost tenders.
If the inspection or the strip reveals rafter damage, rotten fascia boards, or failed ridge timbers, these should be addressed before the new covering goes on. The cost of structural timber repairs varies depending on the extent of the damage, but leaving it in place and covering it over stores up a far more expensive problem.
Common repairs at this stage include replacing the ends of rafters that have been wet at the eaves, sistering damaged rafters with new timber alongside them, replacing the ridge board, and renewing any sections of purlin that carry the mid-span load of the rafters. On older properties, it is also worth checking that the wall plates - the timber running along the top of the walls that the rafters sit on - are in good condition.
New breathable membrane underlay is fixed across the rafters, starting at the eaves and working up to the ridge, with each course overlapping the one below. Breathable underlay - rather than the traditional impermeable black felt - allows moisture vapour from the living space to pass through rather than trapping it in the loft, which reduces condensation on the timbers.
Tanalised timber battens are then fixed over the underlay and across the rafters at the spacing specified for the tile or slate being used. Batten gauge - the exposed distance between each batten - determines how far each tile overlaps the one below. Getting this right is not a matter of estimation; it follows the manufacturer's specification for the chosen product and the roof pitch.
Tiles or slates are fixed to the battens starting at the eaves and working upward. On a mechanically fixed system, every tile in a specified pattern - and all tiles in exposed positions - is clipped or nailed to the batten. Relying on the weight of the tiles alone to hold them, or using mortar as the only fixing, is not acceptable on a properly installed roof.
Valleys - the internal angles where two roof slopes meet - are formed in lead or with valley tiles, depending on the covering used. Both approaches work well when done correctly; lead valleys in particular have a very long service life if dressed properly.
Verges, the edges of the roof where it meets the gable wall, can be finished with a dry verge system using interlocking plastic or aluminium trims, or with traditional mortar bedding. Dry verge systems are now preferred because they do not crack, do not need re-pointing, and prevent birds and insects from nesting at the edge of the covering.
Ridge tiles cap the apex of the roof. Mechanically fixing ridge tiles with a purpose-made clip system, rather than mortar-bedding them alone, is the current best practice. Mortar-only bedded ridges are one of the most common sources of wind damage because the mortar cracks and the tiles lift in strong winds. On hipped roofs, hip tiles need the same attention.
Lead flashing is formed and dressed at every point where the roof meets a vertical surface - around chimney stacks, against party walls, at dormer sides and around any roof penetrations such as soil pipe outlets. Flashing is one of the most failure-prone elements of any roof and needs to be cut properly into a chase in the masonry and secured with lead wedges and pointing, not just pushed into a crack and sealed with mastic.
A thorough contractor will walk the finished roof to check alignment, check that all mechanical fixings are in place, and look at every flashing. Gutters should be cleared of any debris that has dropped in during the work. The site should be cleared of all old materials, packaging and waste, and any areas of garden or driveway that were covered by scaffold boards should be left in the same condition as before.
Ask to be walked through the finished work, or at least to see photographs of the key details - ridge fixings, flashings and eaves - before the scaffold comes down. Once the scaffold is gone, those details are much harder to inspect.
We carry out new roof installations in Bury St Edmunds and across the wider area, including Mildenhall, Barton Mills, Culford, Risby, Lackford and Cavenham. If you want a proper on-site assessment of your roof and a clear explanation of what a replacement would involve, call us to arrange a survey.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.