Getting a chimney rebuild done properly in Burwell is one thing - knowing how to look after it afterwards is what prevents the same problems from coming back.
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A chimney rebuild means taking the stack down to the lead flashing level, or further where the damage requires it, and rebuilding it course by course with matching brick and an appropriate mortar mix. The lead flashing at the base is re-done as part of the rebuild, the pots are re-haunched or replaced, and the top of the stack is weathered to shed rainwater away from the joints.
A failing stack lets water into your roof timbers and walls, and if the chimney serves a live flue, it puts the safety of that flue at risk. A full rebuild addresses the structural cause rather than patching over symptoms that will return.
Even after a rebuild, if your chimney is in active use it needs to be swept regularly. For a wood-burning stove or open fire burning seasoned wood, sweeping at least once a year - ideally before the heating season starts in autumn - keeps the flue clear of soot and creosote build-up. Burning unseasoned or wet wood accelerates this build-up considerably, and a blocked or restricted flue is a fire risk as well as an efficiency problem.
For solid-fuel appliances burning coal or smokeless fuel, sweeping twice a year is the standard recommendation. For gas fires with a conventional flue, once a year is typical. A qualified sweep can also check the liner condition inside the flue as part of a visit - something that is not visible from the roof and which can catch problems before they become expensive. A chimney sweep visit typically costs £50-£80.
If you have a wood burner, use only wood with a moisture content below 20 per cent. Kiln-dried or properly seasoned wood burns hotter and cleaner, produces far less creosote and keeps the liner in better condition between sweeps. Wet or unseasoned wood is one of the main reasons flues deteriorate prematurely.
Rules around wood burning and solid fuel have been tightening. If you are thinking of installing a new stove or changing your fuel type, check the current requirements before you buy. The chimney's liner, pot size and flue dimensions all need to be matched to the appliance. A rebuild is a good opportunity to address these details at the same time, while scaffold is already up and the stack is accessible.
Fresh mortar needs time to cure fully. In the first few weeks after a rebuild, avoid lighting fires or stoves if at all possible. The heat from a first fire on uncured mortar can cause it to crack before it has fully hardened, particularly if the work was done in cooler weather. Ask your contractor when it is safe to use the flue again - the answer depends on the mortar used and the conditions at the time of the build.
Check the stack visually from ground level after the first winter. Binoculars from the garden are enough to see whether any mortar joints have opened up, whether the haunching around the pots looks intact, and whether the flashing at the base of the stack is still bedded in correctly. You are not looking for perfection; you are looking for any obvious change from how the stack looked when the work was finished.
Most chimney rebuilds become necessary because of water getting into the stack over a long period, often through small failures that were not caught early. The following maintenance steps cost very little and can prevent a future rebuild:
Some contractors offer to treat chimney brickwork with a water repellent or silicone-based sealant after repointing or rebuilding. A breathable water repellent applied to sound brickwork can slow the rate at which moisture is absorbed. However, it is not a substitute for sound mortar joints and proper flashing, and it cannot fix spalling brick or structural movement. If a contractor is recommending a treatment instead of addressing a physical defect, ask them to explain the reasoning.
A visual inspection from ground level once a year - ideally in autumn before the heating season - catches most problems while they are still small. A closer inspection from roof level every three to five years is reasonable for a stack that is in regular use. If you have had a rebuild, a follow-up inspection after the first winter checks that the new work has settled as expected.
Repointing mortar joints on a standard chimney stack typically costs £200-£600 depending on the amount of pointing needed and the scaffold required. Replacing a pot and re-haunching typically costs £150-£400. Reflashing the base of a chimney using lead typically costs £400-£900. A partial rebuild from the flashing level upwards typically costs £800-£2,000. A full stack rebuild from the roof line upwards, including new flashing, pots and haunching, typically costs £2,500-£4,500 or more for larger or more complex stacks. Catching a problem at the repointing stage rather than the rebuild stage is almost always significantly cheaper.
We work from Mildenhall and cover Burwell and the surrounding villages, including Newmarket, Isleham, Soham, Kennett, Freckenham, and across towards Thetford and Lakenheath. Call us if you are unsure whether we cover your location.
If your chimney has not been looked at in a few years, or if you have noticed any of the warning signs described here, call us to arrange a roof survey. We will give you an honest assessment of what the stack needs and quote for the specific work, whether that is a minor repair or a full rebuild.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
